With one royal decree, Saudi Arabia has driven away decades of injustice

Published: October 1, 2017
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A woman drives a car in Saudi Arabia October 22, 2013. PHOTO: REUTERS

I was at the wheel of my own motor when the news came over BBC: King Salman of Saudi Arabia has issued a decree permitting Saudi women the right to drive.

In one royal decree, he had swept away decades of injustice against half of the Kingdom. As I navigated the evening rush hour in New York, I felt the tears welling up in my eyes. An almost unintelligible Saudi women activist speaking to the BBC babbled with joy at the news, announcing that she would now drive her dream car – a Ford Mustang convertible.

Saudi Arabia until today was the only country in the world to ban women from driving. Eighteen years ago, when I moved there to practice medicine, I left my Lexus in Long Island, handing over the keys for safekeeping, knowing I was kissing my freedom goodbye. But it wasn’t until arriving in the Kingdom 24 hours later did I truly understand how immobilised my gender in Saudi Arabia would make me.

Immediately bundled into a van with tinted windows, my unveiled self was hidden from public view while my wordless meet-and-greet man, Hamza, drove me to the compound that would be my home while I worked for the Saudi Arabian National Guard Hospital. From then on, I was legally bound by an unwritten, but very firmly enforced, Saudi law forbidding me to operate a motor vehicle.

I would spend two years waiting for drivers to take me here and there, in bone dry 120-degree (F) heat, the Saudi air traveling up the sleeves of my black abaya like a hot hair dryer and actually singeing my nose-hairs as I breathed in. Not being accustomed to waiting for anyone, it was a test in patience which I would frequently fail.

Coordinating a social life without considering the logistics of when a driver would arrive, when I would have to be ready to leave, coordinating drivers with my women friends who had families which shared one driver even with several vehicles, the amount of organisation, disappointment and delays, was part and parcel of life in the Kingdom. And we were privileged women who had money and cars for drivers. Those women with less were utterly housebound as even taxi services were yet to be fully developed.

The first Arabic word I learned in the Kingdom was ‘al-atul’ (straight on) as I would need it all the time when giving directions. The second word I learned was ‘schweyah’, meaning ‘slow down’, that I would say obsessively like a mantra.

There in that Kingdom, in the back seat, I would hold on for dear life until I found my fantastic Egyptian-Christian driver, Zacchariah, who would observe the sedate 40 miles per hour (mph) speed that I felt comfortable in while the rest of the country drove routinely above 80mph and sometimes over 100 mph.

Meanwhile at work, I pieced together countless victims of Saudi road trauma and pronounced (dead) a fair number too. The experience of both not driving and witnessing the carnage as I went about my work as a critical care physician in a trauma intensive care unit, was enough to change my feelings about driving lifelong.

Some nights, waiting for our driver after an elegant dinner at the Sir Norman Foster-designed Al-Faisaliyah skyscraper, which was not fully completed at the time, we were subject to leering stares of Saudi youths, brimming with pent-up testosterone hanging out of their Lamborghinis and  TestaRossas which prowled around us. Meanwhile, curb side, religious police, the Muttawaeen, chastised us for exposing our beauty (because our hijab-ed faces were exposed) and advised us to cover our faces. There we stood, like lemmings, waiting for our driver so that we could get the heck out of there and not be objectified either by religious men or the criminally handsome men irreligiously cat-calling us.

Then there were the bizarre conversations. While I dreamed of returning to New York City to my luxury black-on-black sedan (blasting Led Zeppelin) and quipped it was my personal WMD – Weapon of Mass Wahabi Destruction – I was stuck in a South African taxi euphemistically called a ‘limousine’. My Saudi women friends, daughters of liberal and educated wealthy families, meanwhile debated the pros and cons of luxury cars purchased in Germany at the Mercedes Benz factory – a rite of passage for the Saudi middle-class.

One day, getting into the back of a new car my friend’s father had purchased, she was extolling the virtues of the wheel-base. Wheel-base, I thought to myself, who gives a damn about that?

“The 7 series,” she explained patiently, “has a very long wheel-base, Qanta. Plenty of room in the back and very good for the abaya. See, how much legroom!”

We looked down at the well behind the front seat where my friend was elegantly arranged in swathes of her abaya pooling around her designer heels. I realised then, while every time I bought a car I went straight to the driver’s seat and then a test drive, my Saudi women friends were instead opening up the back door, trying out the back seat and comparing the specs on wheel-bases.

That’s how insane the driving ban made us as women. Even though it has been 16 years since I was last denied the right to drive, as I handled my own vehicle tonight in New York (ironically with a very long wheel-base itself), I was overjoyed for Saudi Arabia’s women and girls today. The daughters of my friends will never know the privation of being denied autonomy the way their mothers and I were. The Saudi women who took so many risks and paid the price in imprisonment will be rightly honoured by this decision and will come to be regarded as the Emmeline Pankhursts of Arabia.

But this decision is also incredibly beneficial for Saudi men who were unable to afford paid drivers and would often struggle to ferry women to and from where they needed to go. This liberates families from the burden of employing a driver. It will also empower not only Saudi women, but the foreign expat women who are there at the moment.

Most importantly, women will be symbolically much closer to being recognised as equals in the eyes of the state, as Islam had originally intended. The first Muslim in history, Hazrat Khadija (RA), first wife of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh), was no less a wealthy merchant holding her own wealth, initiating the marriage proposal to the Prophet (pbuh) and possessed whole caravans of camels via which she would indeed travel. Muslim women are from the beginning of Islam holders of wealth and autonomous in their movements and decisions. Saudi women, with car keys in their hands, will now finally join their ranks.

There will be major adjustments. More than a million expatriates, usually Pakistanis, Egyptians and other migrants, are currently employed by Saudi Arabia either at government institutions or privately. They will now be less in demand and many of them will lose their livelihood. Carmakers long invested in the Saudi market where women have held at least 40% of the private wealth in the Kingdom (2011 data) and often made decisions about purchasing cars. Carmakers had responded by casting cars in pink and purple hues to win over women decision-makers who would never drive these vehicles. That will all change.

But today is a moment for every Saudi woman. As I raced back though the tree lined avenues of Long Island in my own beast of a motor, I couldn’t stop smiling – today, thousands of miles East from here, in a place I once lived, Saudi women at the wheel were feeling the same freedom, power and elation as I was.

‘Allahu Akbar’ (God is great), ladies of Saudi Arabia, you are finally in the driving seat!

This post originally appeared here.

Qanta Ahmed

Qanta Ahmed

A British Muslim who is the author of 'In the Land of Invisible Women: A Female Doctor’s Journey in the Saudi Kingdom' and a physician. She tweets @MissDiagnosis (twitter.com/MissDiagnosis)

The views expressed by the writer and the reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of The Express Tribune.

  • Parvez

    I feel you’ve got a little over excited about the royal decree …….. not that it’s a bad thing but with what little I have seen in the few days I spent in the KSA, I feel that at least in the beginning it will not be smooth driving for the females……but then like most issues faced by female just about anywhere, they will have to persevere and hold firm.Recommend

  • numbersnumbers

    A wonderful and well presented reflection!Recommend

  • peter pan

    I commend the action of the Saudi’s. A piece of advice though- Please come out with a parallel decree that prohibits them to drive and use the cell phone at the same time. It is said that the combination of a woman + a car and a cell phone is LETHAL!!!!Recommend

  • ab

    What you want to say or what you want to write that’s your things but, please don’t use Islam for your convienience!.(para about Hazrat Khadija(RA) These are quoted out of context when some people feel like putting weight into their comment. The best place for woman is their homes according to Islam.Recommend

  • Patwari

    Very informative and thoughtful of you to share your personal experiences in Saudia.
    Indeed, this blog is like a few chapters titled my ‘My Life Under The Burqa’, of a
    biography. Please contact Simon and Schuster or Harper and Collins urgently.
    Now we know more about life, as led by the fair sex, in the Kingdom.
    Finally, they are taking baby steps out of the 7th century. Godspeed, as they say.
    They might join the rest of the world.
    Must point out about the ‘wheel base enigma’. When you are perpetually a passenger,
    and can’t even imagine driving a car, then you are more inclined to think about legroom.
    Even a 2017 LS 460 does not give enough legroom in the back. However, cars that have
    trays in the back [attached to the rear of the front seats] do have plenty of space in the rear.
    These cars normally go by the names of Silver Shadow or Silver Wraith.
    Also, in just about every country, if you can afford a driver, you will prefer to be driven.
    Evidently have this feeling, that the tender gender, will not be beating a path to the
    dealerships, anytime soon. It will be a while. But it will happen.
    And black on black! Now that would be like driving around in hearse. Seal gray, Agate gray
    is more like it, maybe even Silver gray, with a whale tail, now that’s more like it.Recommend

  • Patwari

    When you leave your abode, make left at the door. That will take you
    to the local mulla who will impart all the knowledge that you will ever
    need.
    Say, you are aware that the world does not revolve. The Sun circles
    the earth. And it’s un Islamic for little children to build a snowman. And
    if you just stand in one spot, patiently, China will cruise by, eventually….
    all this bestowed by religious leaders.
    Ooops! Forgot! A religious leader in Saudia said womens’ brain shrinks
    to a 1/4 size when they are driving. Had no idea. That’s a revelation.Recommend

  • Rex Minor

    The present ruler of the country could no longer resist his own daughter driving with high speed and getting booked by the Floridan police nor refuse his family request to spend summer vacations on the French riveria. The king has tried to fulfill both requests now. Miss Ahmad should know that the saudi Royals have the Aladin lamp and are ready to replace camel driving with cars and come into line with the modern world once they replace their 7th century dress culture.as well.

    Rex MinorRecommend