Quetta: An outsider’s perspective

Published: April 21, 2016

Aerial view of Quetta Valley Photo: Native Pakistan

The city of Quetta has been in turmoil for years, and with that comes many misconceptions about the capital of Pakistan’s largest province, Balochistan.

One such mistaken belief is that while visiting Quetta one must dress in the local attire and avoid any western clothing, such as jeans, so as to not stand out as a non-resident. For someone who has heard these remarks repeatedly, I was extremely curious, to say the least, ahead of my visit to Quetta for the first time, even more so because it is believed that the people of Balochistan do not like the people of Punjab, where I am from.

This couldn’t be more far from the truth. The hospitality of the people of Quetta is incomparable; they were extremely welcoming towards us, which I was not expecting at all.

Aerial View of Balochistan
Photo: Kiran Wali

The vast majority of Quetta’s population comprises of Pakhtuns. Women are not seen outside their homes, unlike other big cities, such as Karachi and Lahore. Surrounded by sandy mountains and barely any greenery, the city presents a very ‘brownish’ look. According to one of my friends, Quetta looks like a dry fruit. I agree.

The entire city goes dark after sunset. Business activities come to a halt and markets close down as soon as the call for Maghrib prayers is heard. Hence, there is no nightlife as such – partly due to its closed environment and the vulnerable security situation which stems from the city’s close proximity to the Afghan border. For this reason, various check posts can be seen across the city.

Religious parties, the Jamiat-e-Ulema-e-Islam in particular, seem to have a large following in Quetta, which quite apparent from the fluttering party flags and frequent wall chalking in favour of such parties at various places around the city.

“Quetta is like a dry fruit”
Photo: Kiran Wali

One of the most interesting parts of my visit was being able to interact with the Hazara community. Members of the peaceful community mainly reside in confined areas due to repeated targeted attacks on them. They have their schools, markets, and mosques inside the confined areas, where they live isolated from the rest of the city. It is rather unfortunate that they cannot move around in their own city because of constant threats. Hazaras are easily recognised due to their features, making it much harder for them to keep their identity hidden.

According to one of the residents of the city, religion is just one of the many causes of unrest in Quetta. He fears that there are some “hidden forces” involved in creating a divide between the Baloch and Pakhtuns of Balochistan, which only adds to the conflict and chaos in the region. He also claims that the results of this divide are gradually becoming more apparent.

I asked one of the locals about his thoughts on the claims of ‘India’s backing’ of militants disguised as Baloch separatists and his response was,

“Of course India is supporting them! Who else is providing them with funds and weapons while they hide inside faraway mountains?”

Inside a classroom, Pakistan’s map & people of all four provinces drawn by students
Photo: Kiran Wali

While still not at par with the big cities of Pakistan, Quetta is steadily progressing in the field of education for girls; there is a growing determination amongst young girls to seek education and succeed in their respective fields of interest. The girls, along with holding on to their religious values, want their own independence and space in the outside world – a level of freedom where they can pursue their dreams through education and by exploring new horizons.

Jinnah painted on the wall of a school in Quetta.
Photo: Kiran WaliBesides,

Another interesting aspect was that every school I visited had pictures of Quaid-e-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah either hanging or painted on the walls. Further, all the schools had Pakistani flags hoisted on their buildings.

Pakistan flag on a rooftop in Quetta
Photo: Kiran Wali

In fact, one can see a great number of Pakistani flags fluttering over rooftops in Quetta, which is amazing because flags are usually displayed on national days only in other cities. Upon seeing a Pakistani flag on a rooftop of a friend’s home, I said to her mother,

“It’s nice to see the flag fluttering on your rooftop.”

She replied,

“This flag has been there for the past 20 years. Some militants had been trying to threaten us saying that we will have to face consequences if we didn’t take it off, but we never gave in to their demands. After some time, other people in our neighbourhood also got over the fear and hoisted flags on their rooftops as a gesture of their love for Pakistan.”

Dry fruit shops in one of the famous markets of Quetta
Photo: Kiran Wali

Another thing Quetta is known for is apples and anyone visiting the city always takes apples back with them. Dry fruits are another popular specialty. Varieties of blankets from across the world are available for sale during the harsh winters, which also make good tokens to take home for visitors/tourists.

Development is severely lacking in the city but the federal government cannot be entirely blamed for this. One of the residents shared that Balochistan’s politicians and ministers have been returning development funds back to the federal government simply because they do not want to develop the province.

They then exploit the lack of development as a propaganda tool against the state and cry about unjust treatment by the central governments, the local said.

Eerily beautiful
Photo: Kiran Wali

The general public is misguided and their sentiments are turned against the state through false propaganda by these overly influential people. This can also be validated by the fact when militants willingly surrender before the state, they also reiterate the same thing,

“We have been misguided by the people on top. This azaad Balochistan thing is a hoax.”

My first trip to the city was an eye opener and debunked many myths about the province. Even though Quetta may not be considered the best representative of the entire province, it holds importance as it is the provincial capital.

There are definite (and maybe even deliberate) flaws in what the media – especially the international media – portrays about the province; the same media that hardly sheds light on how several ‘foreign forces’ are actively involved in the destabilisation of Balochistan.

Despite that, there is no denying that the province which is of utmost importance needs immediate attention. The situation on ground is far more complex than what keeps surfacing in the media. Hence, generalising things based on selectively highlighted issues would be extremely unfair.

Kiran Wali

Kiran Wali

A business graduate working in the corporate sector. She tweets @KiranW_ (twitter.com/KiranW_)

The views expressed by the writer and the reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of The Express Tribune.

  • Usman Alvi

    I had goosebumps reading this piece..
    I am Punjabi and I love Balochistan, KPK, Sindh and GB.

    I love Baloch – Our men of the desert,
    Pukhtoons – Our pride and valor
    Sindhi – Our political prowess
    Punjabi – The men of the farms and fields
    GB – Our intellect and Brains.

    Sorry got carried in the moment, but that’s how I feel. and no matter how politicians try to divide us based on our ethnicity, We as people will always be one.

    We are the fortress of Islam, We are Pakistan.
    Kiran, you made my dayRecommend

  • average pashtun

    thanks a lot for visiting a provincial capital of the country you are a citizen in and clearing up whatever ideas you had about a city in your own country, due to electronic and print media. the most interesting and debatable point in your article is that even the self proclaimed educated illiterates of this country stereotype anyone living in the pashtun belt. KUDOS for being a rebel.Recommend

  • Jamil M Chaudri

    A beautiful article. Indeed the flag of the Islamic Republic should adorn every building.Recommend

  • Rohan

    Lol always blame the Indian hand.The Punjabi establishment is responsible for state of affairs in balochistan, having killed 100,000 people and exploited the gold and oil, obvious that people won’t like you.Plus the azadi thing is real, writing biased nonsense with no facts won’t change itRecommend

  • PJ

    Great article. Kudos to the author.
    The Baloch sardars did NOT want
    any education or modern values in
    Balochistan. Every single one of them.
    They wanted the peons under their thumbs.
    Because education enlightens you, and opens
    your eyes. And bring up question abject slavery
    under the sardars. The sardars created this mess.
    Not to mention that Hindustan is fully involved in
    nefarious activities in Balochistan. But everyone
    knows this. All of Hindustan’s consulates, 14 of
    them are near the Pakistan border. What are they
    doing? Issuing business visas to villagers, who don’t
    know where their next meal is coming from!!!Recommend

  • Salim Alvi

    Balochistan is an occupied land and will get independence soon.Recommend

  • jayyed

    Hahaha. Glad to see all RAW propaganda dying its slow, very painful and very sure death. Cliches like Punjabi establishment and Balouch liberation are long dead. We the Pukhtoons have been at the forefront with our army in thwarting India’s evil plans and number second in the army itself. India’s hateful policy, based on the BJP/RSS’ s outdated and extremist version of Hinduism is now embarrassing the Indians regularly. Murders over beef, killings of journalists who bravely expose the extremist Hindu agenda, return of awards, violence in universities, killing of low caste Dalits, forceful conversions in the name of Ghar Wapsi, Kashmiris’ killings and rapes, RAW agents getting caught and exposed to the world and much more.
    On behalf of Pakistanis, let me thank Mr Modi for exposing the Saffron Terrorism. Wish him at least two more terms as PM!Recommend

  • Guarav Bandernaike.

    So will Kerala, Manipur, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, Assam.
    and Indian occupied Kashmir. They will get their independence, soon.Recommend

  • Rohan

    Lol India is growing and Pakistan is failing, your hate filled post won’t change that factRecommend

  • Salim Alvi

    ShankarAcharya the Adi one came from Kerala. Ayurveda is more preserved in Kerala. Even Tibet will be part of India soon. In fact there will be Dharti merger of India, China & rest of East Asia including Japan. Recommend

  • jayyed

    Hahaha. How an Indian Hindu can be recognized from miles away!Recommend

  • jayyed

    This is 2016. India seem stuck somewhere in 1990s. LoL.Recommend

  • Salim Alvi

    Yes recognized very well who wants to cultivate his own native Desi roots, if you call them Hindu then so be it. Rootless parasites offer their all kinds of barbarians, crooks and criminals be they Turk, Arabs, Anglos and now Chini. Chini know very well.Recommend

  • Rohan

    Going by that logic Pakistan is in the 7th century thanks to its medieval blasphemy lawsRecommend

  • jayyed

    Lol. Nobody is rootless- that is basic common sense.
    Even the fake name you have chosen “ALVI” refers to an Arabic root and connection! Next time do a little homework before becoming a fake Muslim- and stop killing Indian Muslims for small reasons like false accusation of eating beef! Recommend

  • jayyed

    Really? Says a county that wants to introduce Hindu beliefs into science taught at Indian institutes!?
    The precise reason 33% of India (Indian Govt’s understated figure) is facing draught, most people lack toilets and half the population lives a life worse than animals is that India is only busy chest thumping and poking its nose in all its neighbors’ affairs, all of whom are openly resenting it.
    The terrorist Jhadav has exposed all details of India’s dirty Baluchistan plan- and dozens more have now been killed or neutralized. RAW’s Baluchistan plan is a sad, sad failure. Recommend

  • jayyed

    If you insist on playing that game, read the comment by Mr Guarav Bandernaike above. Should open your eyes! Recommend

  • Rohan

    How is the drought related?
    Pakistan is still in the medieval era dreaming of mughals,58% of Pakistan doesn’t have water after defacation,.Almost half the country is illiterate and nisar has confirmed presence of 212 banned terrorist organizations
    Plus the so called RAW terrorist was captured by Afghan Taliban and sold to ISI as reported by dawn
    Plus Pakistan is the top 10 failed state Recommend

  • Salim Alvi

    Do you know there is nothing like Arabic to begin with. Bedouin (Koresh & Hashmites) imposed their language on natives of Egypt, Syria and Iraq just as they imposed hodge·podge of native spirituality (you may call it Hinduism, since Namaz as a KriyaYog was already popular among masses besides worship of diverse deities) and Abrahamic. Indian Muslims need to be Indian native first and foremost, otherwise they will become like AfPak Muslims, i.e., suicidal people who hate everything native and are willing to sell their mothers and fathers to curry favors from alien barbaric brutes.

    My ancestor took this last name, Alvi, to be in good books of Shia Mughal sardar. It is like Poonjabi MohMaddens took Mongolian khan title to get promotion in Mughal Darbar.. a short cut. Today shortcuts are convent education, fake brishit accent and fair skin… it happens. Save lord, later generations served Shivaji, the great becuase of whom India is saved otherwise it would be like Iraq, Pakistan and Syria today. I am proud of those ancestors who saved Shivaji, the great’s sons and contributed to build Maratha empire and save India.Recommend

  • jayyed

    none of what you say makes a iota of sense. Anyway good luck with trying to force Indian Muslims to follow your peace loving Hindutva religion of killers RSS, VHP, Sanghis (including the Muslim hater Modi). Your RAW has already embarrassed itself in front of the world, and then India chickened out in front of China as always. (Donkun Isa, poor dude).Recommend

  • jayyed

    Hahaha. I highly recommend reading something else than RSS and Sangh Parivar manuals. They keep embarrassing you everywhere, besides causing the untouchable Dalits to run away from Hindutva.
    And why did you say 58%? Didn’t the Thackeray boys tell you 78%?

  • Salim Alvi

    today’s Europeans are finding hard to own their native ancestor who were more civil/pagan than Romans. That is why Pakistanis are producing terrorists. How many know history of Bappa Rawal, even Sanjay & Sunil Dutt’s ancestor’s fighting for Ali and giving their lives to protect Ali, how many woudl know that Raja Dahir had given refuge to the family of your Prophet?Recommend

  • Rohan

    The UN research told me 58 Recommend

  • jayyed

    Sure sure. Special UN unit for India! LoL!Recommend

  • Rohan

    Go on their website and read unless you’re illiterateRecommend

  • Malek Ul Ashter Abid

    i visit and tour balochistan many times. balauchistan is a gift of nature to pakistanRecommend